BUN AND TEA IN BOMBAY...

Before the sun rises and on the crowing of a rooster , the furnace is lit for a baking . The aroma of a freshly baked bread surrounds the small lanes of South Bombay and essence of vanilla used  in making Mawa cakes (Muffins) tempts everyone passing by to have a brunch. That’s the ecstasy which every individual of Bombay gets from an Irani/Parsi Restaurants. Irani/Parsi Restaurants are the most old iconic brunch stops which have their own stature in terms of their quality and class. Gushing sounds of a rush in a early hours of morning and a challenge to find a wooden chair of a thick straws as a seat. The tapping sounds of a Cup and Saucers on the tables covered with a transparent glass which makes easy to read the menu fixed inside. Its been almost a many decades these restaurants fills in the empty stomach every morning and refreshes so many minds with a soothing taste of tea.

 South Bombay comprises of many Parsi and Irani Restaurants and from the time of British regime. One of the most famous Parsi restaurants in the area of Ballard estate is “Britania and Co”.. If anyone watch Hindi movies this Parsi restaurant was showcased in the most acclaimed movie of 1988 “Tezaab”… “ Bawa yeh Murga Bahut Accha hain “ a marwadi character making a statement to a tall , fair built uncle sitting with a Rooster on his counter table.. Mr. Boman Kohinoor a man who has still kept his restaurant reputation up to date. The history goes this way …Mr Bomans father wanted to start this restaurant, when this restaurant was renovated and decorated; he wanted to get quick permission from the British commissioner, to start it straight away. Those were the days of the British, so he thought of giving it a British name, so that the British municipal commissioner at that time being British on seeing the name Britannia he will grant permission immediately. That was the British era, so that is why he gave the name ‘Britannia’. Till today this restaurant is famous for their dish called as “Berry Pulao” though it is expensive but anyone would be tempt and don’t think about shelling out money for this wonderful. It is said that the visit to Britania is incomplete if you don’t have a Berry Pulao.

Moving further from Ballard Estate one who is born during 70s and his childhood days of 80’s will never forget the bread pudding of Kyani and co. Those Sundays of 80’s will always be fresh in my mind. Me and my brother use to take bicycles on hire from Chira Bazar by paying just 2 Rs for 2 Hours . Driving happily on the empty , clean and potholes less streets of Bombay our main destination was Kyani and co. The tempt of eating Bun Bread , Pudding and Chocolate milk would force us to pedal fast as if we both are participating in a race. Tring Tring move aside man.. use to be our statements to the passerby who were coming in our way like a hurdles stoping us to munch our favorite brunch. Parking our bicycle and jiggling sounds of a coins and a green five rupee note was enough for us to order our favourite. “Good morning uncle , kem cho (How are you)” was our first words before we run upstairs and catch the seat which can give a view to the downside of a café.. “ Ek Bun Maska , Pudding aur Paani kum Chai” (Tea with less water and milk to the fullest) was our command to a simple person who was taking our order as he was doing his job. 

Looking at the menu carefully again and make sure the calculated money what we got would be enough to pay . Burp sounds after sipping a hot tea use to create a stare from others reminding us to maintain the table manners , but who the hell cares.. Kyani and co still a very famous Parsi restaurants in the outskirts of South Bombay. It was a must go joint for all the Parsi Dasturs after finishing their duties at Atash Behrams. Be it a Parsi New Year , Jashan (Prayers for Happiness) , Gathas (Prayers for departed souls) all the Parsi families would rush to Kyani for filling in their empty stomachs with Cakes , Puddings and Omlettes of this restaurants. Those were the days of 80’s when Kyani was getting a stiff competition from his neighbor “ Bastani and Co”.. Some of them said they are both hand in hand.. I really miss munching the chicken patties offered to us by one of beloved Adi Uncle and his bachelor brother Behram. “ Dikra Raspberry pise” (Will you have Raspberry drink) ..Yuck was the only expression as me and my brother hated the sweet taste of Raspberry. Secondly there were no free promotional goodies which we use to get after opening the cap of Thumbs Up.. I remember we use to collect the pictures of our Favourite cricketers like Kapil Dev , Srikanth , Dilip Vengsarkar , Sunil Gavaskar which were printed on the thick soft plastic of the cap. The more you collect you are eligible for a prize. I still remember buying Easter eggs from Kyani and co during those days . Till today Kyani has continued its legacy.

I know many who always remark on the question that whats your favorite Parsi Cuisine.. “DHANSAK , CURRY RICE , BOOMLA(Bombay Ducks) , MUTTON NA KABAB”..Hold on before your mouth starts watering. Ideal dishes of Bawajis and to have them a lovely place situated in the thin lanes of Hutatma Chowk is “ IDEAL RESTAURANT”.. No one can never forget the aroma of a fresh cooked brown basmati rice and a thick Dal with a Chicken or mutton dipped inside. Mutton Kabab to add some more relish and a Caramel custard completes every person desire of satisfying his/her hunger after having a blissful lunch at theIdeal. One of the best place to have Parsi Lunch and Dinner in South Bombay. I don’t have much memories about Ideal but I remember eating Bombay ducks , Mutton Patties which my aunt use to get for us in evenings. “ SASSANIAN RESTAURANT” is also one of the most well know place for DHANSAK lovers. To add more information on DHANSAK .. 

Dhansak is a popular Indian dish, especially popular among the Parsi Zoroastrian community.It combines elements of Persian and Gujarati cuisine. Dhansak is made by cooking mutton with a mixture of lentils and vegetables. This is served with caramelised brown rice, which is rice cooked in caramel water to give it a typical taste and colour. The dal cooked with mutton and vegetables served with brown rice, altogether is called dhansak. In Parsi homes, dhansak is traditionally made on Sundays as it is a heavy dish to digest and owing to the long preparation time.Dhansak is also always had on the fourth day after the death of a near one. There is no meat consumed for three days after the death of a near one. And dhansak is used to break this abstinence on the fourth day. Dhansak hence, is never prepared on auspicious occasions like festivals and weddings. Coming towards one of the most old theatre in South Bombay New Excelsior stands opp to it is also one of the most famous Parsi restaurant “CAFÉ EXCELSIOR”.. All Dhansak lovers will not miss this joint. A leg piece of a chicken which will be enough to fill you up . I still remember separate family room cabins upstairs usually filled up with Families , college going love birds and office going couple deciding about their future with just 2 cups of tea.

Now who can forget stepping out of platform No 1 of Grant Road station opposite to it stands one of the most unforgettable Parsi café and still going strong for 10 decades. The Light green colour painted window panes above the restaurant is itself a landmark and a billboard named with big letters “B MERWAN AND CO.”. Whether a labourer , an artisit , a Government officer , Professor, an individuals of all professions will be found enjoying their favorite Mawa Cake which was and still today one of the favorites in whole Bombay.  “Where will I get good Mawa cakes”?? The answer would be get up early in the morning rush to B.Merwan before 9am or else you will miss this sweet and hot muffin to grub with a tea or a glass of a milk. Started in 1914 by Boman Merwan, the grandfather of one of the current owners, Sarosh Irani, it has been the best place for anyone who likes to indulge in a delicious breakfast or their most famous mawa cake and samosas. 

I still recollect my old college days taking a train from Charni Road station and covering a distance in just 2 mins . Rushing with my friends to B.Merwan and ordering the lovely muffins along with Omlettes, Kheema and Milk. It was enough to keep us going on till lunch hours at 2 pm. Few months back there was a news that this café is on a verge of a shut down which created a disappointment in thousands of hearts of B.Merwan lovers , but no it was again up and still going strong. Some of the old citizens who don’t  have a money to dine are never left empty handed. They are been given bread and cake to eat though the visit of them is regular. Parsis strongly believe in Charities and serving the poor. One of the best thing about these restaurants which they have maintained till date. No Cards please.. Only Cash.

I am not been biased mentioning only about these cafes , there are many other cafes too which is giving a shine to our good old Bombay.  But above everyone these Parsi/Irani restaurants have been a part of everyone memories whether the situations were Happy , Sad or regular.