Before the sun rises and on the crowing of a rooster , the
furnace is lit for a baking . The aroma of a freshly baked bread surrounds the
small lanes of South Bombay and essence of vanilla used in making Mawa cakes (Muffins) tempts
everyone passing by to have a brunch. That’s the ecstasy which every individual
of Bombay gets from an Irani/Parsi Restaurants. Irani/Parsi Restaurants are the most
old iconic brunch stops which have their own stature in terms of their quality
and class. Gushing sounds of a rush in a early hours of morning and a challenge
to find a wooden chair of a thick straws as a seat. The tapping sounds of a Cup
and Saucers on the tables covered with a transparent glass which makes easy to
read the menu fixed inside. Its been almost a many decades these restaurants
fills in the empty stomach every morning and refreshes so many minds with a
soothing taste of tea.
Moving
further from Ballard Estate one who is born during 70s and his childhood days
of 80’s will never forget the bread pudding of Kyani and co. Those Sundays of
80’s will always be fresh in my mind. Me and my brother use to take bicycles on
hire from Chira Bazar by paying just 2 Rs for 2 Hours . Driving happily on the
empty , clean and potholes less streets of Bombay our main destination was
Kyani and co. The tempt of eating Bun Bread , Pudding and Chocolate milk would
force us to pedal fast as if we both are participating in a race. Tring Tring
move aside man.. use to be our statements to the passerby who were coming in
our way like a hurdles stoping us to munch our favorite brunch. Parking our
bicycle and jiggling sounds of a coins and a green five rupee note was enough
for us to order our favourite. “Good morning uncle , kem cho (How are you)” was
our first words before we run upstairs and catch the seat which can give a view
to the downside of a café.. “ Ek Bun Maska , Pudding aur Paani kum Chai” (Tea
with less water and milk to the fullest) was our command to a simple person who
was taking our order as he was doing his job.
Looking at the menu carefully again
and make sure the calculated money what we got would be enough to pay . Burp
sounds after sipping a hot tea use to create a stare from others reminding us
to maintain the table manners , but who the hell cares.. Kyani and co still a
very famous Parsi restaurants in the outskirts of South Bombay. It was a must
go joint for all the Parsi Dasturs after finishing their duties at Atash Behrams.
Be it a Parsi New Year , Jashan (Prayers for Happiness) , Gathas (Prayers for
departed souls) all the Parsi families would rush to Kyani for filling in their
empty stomachs with Cakes , Puddings and Omlettes of this restaurants. Those
were the days of 80’s when Kyani was getting a stiff competition from his
neighbor “ Bastani and Co”.. Some of them said they are both hand in hand.. I
really miss munching the chicken patties offered to us by one of beloved Adi
Uncle and his bachelor brother Behram. “ Dikra Raspberry pise” (Will you have
Raspberry drink) ..Yuck was the only expression as me and my brother hated the
sweet taste of Raspberry. Secondly there were no free promotional goodies which
we use to get after opening the cap of Thumbs Up.. I remember we use to collect
the pictures of our Favourite cricketers like Kapil Dev , Srikanth , Dilip
Vengsarkar , Sunil Gavaskar which were printed on the thick soft plastic of the
cap. The more you collect you are eligible for a prize. I still remember buying
Easter eggs from Kyani and co during those days . Till today Kyani has
continued its legacy.
I know many who always remark on the question that whats your
favorite Parsi Cuisine.. “DHANSAK , CURRY RICE , BOOMLA(Bombay Ducks) , MUTTON
NA KABAB”..Hold on before your mouth starts watering. Ideal dishes of Bawajis
and to have them a lovely place situated in the thin lanes of Hutatma Chowk is “
IDEAL RESTAURANT”.. No one can never forget the aroma of a fresh cooked brown
basmati rice and a thick Dal with a Chicken or mutton dipped inside. Mutton
Kabab to add some more relish and a Caramel custard completes every person
desire of satisfying his/her hunger after having a blissful lunch at theIdeal. One
of the best place to have Parsi Lunch and Dinner in South Bombay. I don’t have
much memories about Ideal but I remember eating Bombay ducks , Mutton Patties
which my aunt use to get for us in evenings. “ SASSANIAN RESTAURANT” is also
one of the most well know place for DHANSAK lovers. To add more information on
DHANSAK ..
Dhansak is a popular Indian dish, especially
popular among the Parsi Zoroastrian
community.It combines elements of Persian and Gujarati cuisine. Dhansak is made by cooking mutton with a mixture of
lentils and vegetables. This is served with caramelised brown rice, which is
rice cooked in caramel water to give it a typical taste and colour. The dal
cooked with mutton and vegetables served with brown rice, altogether is called
dhansak. In Parsi homes, dhansak is traditionally made on Sundays as it is a heavy dish to digest and owing
to the long preparation time.Dhansak is also always had on the fourth day after
the death of a near one. There is no meat consumed for three days after the
death of a near one. And dhansak is used to break this abstinence on the fourth
day. Dhansak hence, is never prepared on auspicious occasions like festivals
and weddings. Coming towards one of the most old theatre in South Bombay New
Excelsior stands opp to it is also one of the most famous Parsi restaurant “CAFÉ
EXCELSIOR”.. All Dhansak lovers will not miss this joint. A leg piece of a
chicken which will be enough to fill you up . I still remember separate family
room cabins upstairs usually filled up with Families , college going love birds
and office going couple deciding about their future with just 2 cups of tea.
Now who can forget stepping out of platform No 1 of Grant Road
station opposite to it stands one of the most unforgettable Parsi café and
still going strong for 10 decades. The Light green colour painted window panes
above the restaurant is itself a landmark and a billboard named with big
letters “B MERWAN AND CO.”. Whether a labourer , an artisit , a Government
officer , Professor, an individuals of all professions will be found enjoying
their favorite Mawa Cake which was and still today one of the favorites in
whole Bombay. “Where will I get good
Mawa cakes”?? The answer would be get up early in the morning rush to B.Merwan
before 9am or else you will miss this sweet and hot muffin to grub with a tea
or a glass of a milk. Started in 1914 by Boman Merwan, the
grandfather of one of the current owners, Sarosh Irani, it has been the best
place for anyone who likes to indulge in a delicious breakfast or their most
famous mawa cake and samosas.
I
still recollect my old college days taking a train from Charni Road station and
covering a distance in just 2 mins . Rushing with my friends to B.Merwan and
ordering the lovely muffins along with Omlettes, Kheema and Milk. It was enough
to keep us going on till lunch hours at 2 pm. Few months back there was a news
that this café is on a verge of a shut down which created a disappointment in
thousands of hearts of B.Merwan lovers , but no it was again up and still going
strong. Some of the old citizens who don’t have a money to dine are never left empty handed.
They are been given bread and cake to eat though the visit of them is regular.
Parsis strongly believe in Charities and serving the poor. One of the best thing about these restaurants which they have maintained till date. No Cards please.. Only Cash.
I am
not been biased mentioning only about these cafes , there are many other cafes
too which is giving a shine to our good old Bombay. But above everyone these Parsi/Irani
restaurants have been a part of everyone memories whether the situations were
Happy , Sad or regular.